Using a pan and the brush, clean the chain with solvent. If there are still some stubborn grimy bits, let the chain soak a little longer. Be careful not to force dirt under the O-rings, but rather brush it away.

Once you have the chain as clean as possible, carefully wipe off any excess solvent.

Step 2.

Support the motorcycle by either placing it on it's centre or rear stand, presuming that you have one. If not, this procedure can be done by resting the bike on it's side stand. Turn the rear wheel slowly by hand with the transmission in neutral. Get someone to help you with this if you are not comfortable doing it. (Friends are free, new plastic and parts are not!)

Step 3.

Now, get your tools out and make sure that you have the proper ones to do the job. Most motorcycle manufacturers include a small kit with the bike that contains most of the common tools needed for basic jobs. However, you may want to get yourself some professional tools for permanent use.

Step 4.

Visually check the drive chain for the possible defects listed below:

If any defects are found, the drive chain should be replaced along with the front a rear sprocket set.

Note: If your bike has a single-sided swingarm, its rear axle is mounted on an eccentric which is held in position by a cotter-pin. Rotating this alters the axles position.

Step 5.

The chain tension should be checked using it's lower run and vary so check at more than one point. If the chain is tighter or looser at different points, it has a “tight spot.” Adjust the tension to the correct setting found in your owner's manual at the chains tightest spot. If the tight spot is severe enough, replace the chain.

Step 6.

There are two ways of checking the wheel alignment. By using a tape measure, or the indicators on the swingarm. As long as both markings are equal on each side, there "should" not be any problems.

Note: Some motorcycles have a security pin (cotter-pin), which will needs to be removed before you can loosen the axle nuts. Replace this with a new one when you are finished.

Step 7.

Loosen the axle nuts, they may be tight which may require a more suitable tool than what came with your bike kit. You do not have to take it off, just turn it a couple of times.

Step 8.

In order not to disturb wheel alignment, you must move the axle back by the same amount on each side of the wheel. (Refer to Step 6) Loosen the chain adjuster lock-nuts and torque link nut, if equipped. They only need to be moved by either a quarter-turn or a sixth of a turn at a time.

Step 9.

Check the tension after moving both bolts. Retighten the axle nuts, (axle nuts require specific torque settings, so check with your owner' manual, service manual or dealer for the proper values) and then recheck the tension before tightening the locknuts and replacing security pins.

Note: When you tighten the axle nuts, this will take up some of the slack in the chain. Do not over-tighten the chain.

Step 10.

Lube the chain.  After the cleaning earlier and now that the chain is adjusted, you will need to warm it up so that when you lubricate it the oil soaks into all the surfaces. This can be done by taking the bike out for a short ride, or using a hair dryer (er...check with the wife first on that one).

With the chain warm, lubricate the inside, between the inner and outer rows of link plates only. Any lube you apply to the outside will be thrown clear the first time you ride. Use a rag to carefully wipe off any excess lube, and you are set.