The cheap part of this is that it can save you hundreds in the cost of new batteries; I have had terrible luck with Batteries.  No matter how good a brand I buy I have often found my self junking batteries after only a season or less of use. The reason for this in my case is 2 fold, one I own multiple bikes so not all of them get ridden as regularly as is needed to keep the batteries getting a regular charge from the bikes charging systems and 2 I have found it to be a problem on bike with alarms not being ridding often enough the alarm slowly kills the battery. I simple and cost effective solution is a battery tender.

Fork Seal Replacement

F ork seals should be replaced at the first sign of oil appearing on the stanchion tubes' legs.

Be we all know that not usually the case... and is often left as one of those job we put off over and over again, considering what it can do to your forks and the fact that it's ceratinly a life threatening issue when you consider the implications of fork oil on your front brakes... The winter months are when I like to get to all those nagging jobs that I have been meaning to. So this month we cover for seal replacment.

Knowing when your Fork Seals are due:

At first, there will be a black ring of oily dirt at the top of the fork's travel. If allowed to go on unchecked, the leak will worsen until there is enough oil accumulated on top of the dust seal to run down the back of the fork leg, straight onto the brake calipers. Eventually the fork will run out of oil, seizing the bushing surfaces that allow the fork halves to slide, thereby locking up the front end.

How to fix a leaky seal?

Simple: Replace it by following the procedure outlined in this article.

Motorcycle Restoration, The Art of Motion

Copyright © Frank Hilliard, 1995

Motorcycle restoration is in many ways the perfect hobby, melding an interest in things mechanical, the joy of craftsmanship, the satisfaction of collecting, the excitement of riding and the value of investment. Deciding where to start is the hard part.

A traditional approach has been to concentrate on English bikes of the 1950s and 1960s, especially sporting or racing 500cc singles like the Manx Norton, BSA DBD34GS Gold Star or Velocette Thruxton. At the very top of the desirability heap are Vincents--the 500cc Comet, the 1,000ccRapide and the 125mph-capable Vincent Black Shadow.

Problem is, the prices of these classics have been rising rapidly in recent years, and they are now out of sight for all but the most well-heeled motorcycle investor. Not to worry, the second rank of English bikes - mostly 650cctwins - are both more numerous and more economical. The best of these are the twin-carburetor Triumph T120 Bonnevilles from 1966 to 1970, any 650 Norton from 1960-1970 and the standard BSA 650, dubbed the A10. More available, if a little less desirable, are the later Bonnevilles, Norton Commandos and BSA Lightnings.

This is a great option to stop the decay of a tank on a classic bike and a great way to keep the nasty stuff out of you fuel system.

I have used Kreem w/ very good success, but as with most things in life, the preparation is the most important part.  Four important fine points to consider: